The fashion industry's reliance on Perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) is both deep-rooted and far-reaching, with a notable impact on the environment and potentially on human health. A study conducted by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) revealed that PFAS compounds are incredibly durable, with some taking over a thousand years to degrade in the environment. This durability, while beneficial for the lifespan of clothing, contributes significantly to environmental pollution.
Market analysis also underscores the economic dimensions of PFAS usage in apparel. According to a report by MarketsandMarkets, the global market for waterproof breathable textiles, which heavily depend on PFAS for their water-repelling qualities, was valued at approximately $1.8 billion in 2020, with projections suggesting an increase to $2.4 billion by 2025.
This growth, however, may face challenges as consumer awareness and regulatory pressures against PFAS intensify. The transitioning market is further evidenced by increasing investment in PFAS-free alternatives, signifying a paradigm shift within the fashion industry towards more sustainable practices. As regulators worldwide tighten the noose around PFAS use, it is time the fashion industry addresses what lies in the thread of the fabric – the issue of PFAS.
The textile and equipment industry, particularly outdoor clothing and footwear brands, is heavily dependent on PFAS. Products ranging from rain jackets, and ski gear to running shoes owe their water-resistant features to these substances. Several companies are leading the charge against the use of PFAS in the textile industry, marking a significant shift towards more sustainable practices.
London-based startup Amphico has taken an innovative approach by developing a fully recyclable, PFAS-free textile named Amphitex. Inspired by the water-repellent properties of the lotus leaf, Amphitex is crafted from polyolefin and utilizes biomimicry to achieve its water resistance. Founded in 2018 by material science researcher Jun Kamei, Amphico aims to begin mass production of this breathable, water-repellent product in Europe and Japan this year, thanks to funding from the Nagoya-based textile trader Toyoshima.
Keen, the Oregon-based footwear manufacturer has not only shifted away from PFAS but has also engaged in public awareness campaigns to highlight the issue, notably recommending the movie "Dark Waters" to illustrate the dangers of PFAS pollution.
Closing the PFAS chapter in the textile industry is undoubtedly challenging, but with third-party accreditation and global collaboration, these efforts will ensure brands live up to their pledges to stop using hazardous materials and technologies.
