In a groundbreaking development, researchers have introduced a chemical processing technique capable of converting old fabrics into reusable molecules—a potential game-changer for textile recycling. The method, detailed in a recent Science Advances paper, offers a promising solution to the mounting waste crisis exacerbated by the fashion industry.
In 2018, the EPA estimated that textile generation reached 17 million tons, making up 5.8% of total municipal solid waste (MSW) for that year. Clothing and footwear generation estimates were partly based on American Apparel and Footwear Association sales data. The EPA noted that a significant amount of textiles are reused, but these reused textiles are not included in the generation estimates and eventually enter the MSW stream.
The recycling rate for all textiles was 14.7%, with 2.5 million tons recycled. Specifically, the recycling rate for clothing and footwear was 13%, and for items like sheets and pillowcases, it was 15.8%. In 2018, 3.2 million tons of textiles were combusted, accounting for 9.3% of MSW combusted with energy recovery. Landfills received 11.3 million tons of textile MSW, 7.7% of all MSW landfilled.
Textile recycling faces significant hurdles due to the complex nature of fabrics, which often combine materials like cotton with synthetic fibers such as polyester. Traditional mechanical recycling methods struggle to separate and reuse these mixed materials effectively, leading to degraded material quality.
"Less than 1% of textiles are currently recycled, with a substantial portion ending up incinerated or in landfills," notes Dionisios Vlachos, co-author of the study and engineer at the University of Delaware. “This contributes significantly to environmental pollution, including microplastic contamination in oceans."
The research team turned to chemical recycling as a promising alternative. Using microwave-assisted glycolysis, they successfully broke down synthetic components of fabrics into reusable building blocks. This process involves applying heat and a catalyst to dismantle polymer chains, converting them into smaller, manageable units.
Miriam Ribul, a UKRI Textiles Circularity Centre researcher, emphasizes investing in innovative processes to advance textile recycling. “While repair and reuse should be prioritized, scalable chemical recycling technologies offer a crucial pathway to reducing fashion industry waste,” she asserts.
The development of this chemical processing technique marks a significant step forward in sustainable fashion practices. With continued refinement and scaling, it holds the potential to drastically increase global textile recycling rates, mitigating environmental impacts and fostering a more circular economy.
"As we refine and scale this process, we envision a future where the majority of clothing can be recycled, significantly reducing our environmental footprint," Vlachos affirms. "This innovation is poised to make a tangible impact in real-world applications."
By harnessing chemical innovation, researchers are paving the way for a more sustainable future in which discarded textiles can find new life as valuable resources rather than contributing to global waste streams.
