The first garment made using Protein Evolution’s Biopure’s biological recycling process was unveiled at the UN COP28 this past week. The new parka, designed by Protein Evolution and Stella McCartney, was created with rigid packaging waste and industrial textile strappings that were recycled through the Biopure process.
Biopure technology uses AI-designed enzymes to break down polyester waste into raw materials used to make new, biorecycled polyester. The technology may break down a wide variety of waste, such as plastic bottles, clamshells, and industrial textiles. The resulting material is considered an “infinitely recyclable” polyester material with a considerably lower carbon impact than polyester made from petroleum.
Biological recycling uses chemistry to weaken molecular bonds that hold plastic waste together, then enzymes turn this material into a substitute for petroleum-based raw materials. Beyond its use for textiles, plastic manufacturers may also use the raw material to create 100% recycled plastic packaging. The material and its recycling process may be integrated into preexisting supply chains in order to minimize plastic waste.
“Today marks a pivotal moment in the move towards textile-to-textile circularity in the fashion industry,” said Connor Lynn, co-founder and chief business officer of Protein Evolution. “Not only is this coat validation for the utility and quality of biorecycled polyester – specifically polyester chips created using Biopure – it also offers companies an alternative to the landfill or incinerator for their fabrics, extending the life of their materials indefinitely.”
Protein Evolution said it is the only company to validate biological recycling technology through the creation of a new clothing item.
According to Protein Evolution, more than 90 million tons of polyester, a synthetic material made from fossil fuels, are manufactured every year. A large majority of the material is not recycled, instead becoming landfill waste or going to incinerators, causing both economic losses and environmental damage.
Along with recycled polyester, a number of fashion companies have begun to explore other recycling possibilities.
Designer Mara Hoffman recently released a line of dresses made from circ lyocell, a recycled textile blend, and a group of major footwear brands is currently working to design and validate a recycling process for shoes. Additionally, several policies have been introduced to promote product circularity, especially for the fashion industry. For example, the European Union recently updated its EcoDesign rules to ban the destruction of unsold apparel, clothing accessories, and footwear.
As waste from single-use materials, particularly plastic, accumulates around the world, the need for product circularity appears to require low-cost recycling solutions in the near future.
“Protein Evolution’s breakthrough technology delivers a cost-effective, high-quality way to combat plastic waste and create a truly circular product, not only in fashion but across industries,” said Sophie Bakalar, partner for Collaborative Fund, which led Protein Evolution's first fundraising round. “It’s remarkable what the company has achieved in less than a year of this collaboration with our partner Stella McCartney. It really demonstrates Protein Evolution’s laser focus on creating solutions that can be used today – not decades in the future – to have the biggest impact at the fastest pace possible.”
