In the pursuit of sustainable materials, the textile industry has increasingly turned to bio-based fibers as eco-friendly alternatives to traditional plastics. However, new research from the University of Plymouth and the University of Bath reveals that these bio-based materials, while reducing plastic waste, may also carry unexpected ecological risks. Published in Environmental Science and Technology, the study reveals that popular bio-based fibers like viscose and lyocell may negatively impact soil health more severely than conventional polyester, raising questions about their sustainability.
With global production of bio-based and biodegradable fibers reaching 329,000 tonnes in 2022, these materials represent a fast-growing segment of the textile industry. Yet, the study's findings suggest that high concentrations of bio-based fibers can disrupt soil ecosystems. When tested, lyocell and viscose fibers were found to cause significantly higher mortality rates among earthworms—60% for lyocell and 80% for viscose—compared to just 30% for polyester. These surprising results highlight the need for an ecological risk assessment in developing and adopting bio-based alternatives.
Beyond mortality rates, the study examined the broader environmental impact of these fibers. At realistic environmental concentrations, viscose was linked to a notable reduction in earthworm reproduction compared to polyester, while lyocell exposure decreased growth and increased burrowing activity among earthworms. These changes can potentially disrupt essential ecosystem functions, such as nutrient cycling and soil aeration, underscoring the importance of sustainable manufacturing and environmental compliance in textile innovation.
Interestingly, the study’s chemical analysis suggests that the observed effects stemmed from the physical and structural properties of these fibers rather than chemical additives. This finding points to the need for textile manufacturers to carefully consider the material characteristics of next-generation sustainable textiles.
As the United Nations prepares for upcoming discussions on the Global Plastics Treaty in Busan, South Korea, these findings have significant implications for industry leaders focused on textile industry sustainability. Manufacturers face a growing responsibility to balance the reduction of conventional plastic use with the potential ecological impacts of new materials. Bio-based fibers, while offering a promising alternative to microplastics, must undergo comprehensive environmental assessments to ensure they do not inadvertently create new sustainability challenges.
For industry stakeholders, this study serves as a reminder that achieving a truly circular economy in textiles involves rigorous testing and thoughtful environmental impact assessments. As demand for sustainable textiles grows, the textile industry has a critical opportunity to lead by developing bio-based fibers that prioritize both ecological impact and performance criteria.
While bio-based fibers like viscose and lyocell offer a potential path forward in the quest for sustainable textiles, this study highlights the complexity of material innovation. Industry leaders must engage in robust testing and sustainability assessments to develop bio-based textiles that align with environmental goals. The textile industry’s journey towards reducing its environmental footprint is a complex one, but by carefully balancing environmental and performance factors, manufacturers can help pave the way for genuinely sustainable textile solutions.
